นิตยสาร สารคดี: ฉบับที่ ๒๒๐ เดือนมิถุนายน ๒๕๔๖ นิตยสาร สารคดี: ฉบับที่ ๒๒๐ เดือนมิถุนายน ๒๕๔๖ "มอแกน ยิปซีทะเลผู้หยุดเร่ร่อน"
  นิตยสาร สารคดี: ฉบับที่ ๒๒๐ เดือนมิถุนายน ๒๕๔๖ ISSN 0857-1538  

Morgan: the Gypsies of the Andaman Sea

  Story: Jakkapan Kangwan
Photos: Pravej Tantrapirom
 
Click to Bigger     Several centuries ago the ancestors of the Morgan people migrated to the Andaman sea around the Myeik Archipelago in Burma all the way to Surin Islands in Thailand. They spent much of their lives in large hand-carved wooden boats called "Ka Bang" roaming freely from one island to another and living off the riches of the sea. Because of their nomadic way of life they have been dubbed "the Gypsies of the sea."
    Then there was the invisible but powerful line that divided into two countries the long stretch of 800 islands where Morgan people inhabited. And more importantly the demarcation of Surin Islands as a national marine park in 1981 had a profound impact on the way of life of Morgan people in Thailand. 
Click to Bigger     Traditionally avid swimmers able to dive deep to collect clams and sea cucumbers, Morgan people are now forbidden from harvesting sea animals--with the exception of subsistence fishing -- and from freely crossing the border to visit their relatives and friends. With access to the Morgan cultural centers in Burma cut off and their way of life restricted, changes to the 190 Morgan people on Surin Islands are inevitable.
    As long-distance sea travelling became less frequent, the boats-cum-houses "Ka Bang" virtually disappeared, and Morgans now live in permanent houses. The beautiful sea and the designation of the islands as a national park have brought an increasing number of tourists to the area. As a result, the lives of Morgan people, park officials and tourists are now intertwined in an interesting way. Many Morgans are now seen mingled among park visitors, doing construction work for the park, driving tourist boats, collecting garbage, and cleaning rooms. While the park visitors bring Morgans income, there are also problems that come with increased contact with outsiders, such as alcohol, smoking, and begging.
Click to Bigger      In April when visitors crowd the islands, the park officials facilitate and provide food items for Morgan people to hold a traditional ceremony involving food worship, dance and songs to ancestors. The ancestors are symbolized by four carved and painted wooden "Lor Bong" pillars planted in the sea. According to a Morgan, the ceremony is to protect their people, officials and tourists from evils and illnesses.